CLAS 220: Greek and Roman Costume
compiled by John Porter, University of Saskatchewan

Terms, Relevant Links Elsewhere on the WWW, and Bibliography for Course Lectures on Greek and Roman Costume.

NOTE: For the most part, links on this page are to relevant material on other WWW sites.
Please do not assume that the material is mine unless the page to which you are directed is clearly marked as being part of this WWW site.

Terms

(Those terms marked with an asterisk are of particular importance.)

GREEK

For links to specific images to be discussed in class, visit the *Images of Greek Costume page.

• Male
  • *Himation — "mantle" (the closest the Greeks come to a toga)
    • Aristophanes, Birds 1565-74   [N.B. The English translation here is defective and misleading.]
    • Herodotus 1.71
  • *Chiton — "tunic" (either full-length or knee-length)
    • Chitoniskos — "small (i.e., short) tunic"
    • Exomis — short chiton with right arm left free for activity (slaves: Hephaestus; hunting: Artemis, Amazons, female sprinters)
  • *Chlamys — light cloak (travelers, hunters, cavalrymen)
  • *Petasos — traveler's hat
  • Tribon — course workaday cloak worn by the poor, ascetics, etc.

• Female
  • *Peplos — "gown"
    • Apoptygma — overfold hanging down from upper part of peplos
    • Kolpos — bulge of material over belt of peplos
  • *Chiton — "tunic," "shift"
    • *Ionic Chiton — puffed sleeves, sheerer material (linen)
    • Xenophon, Memorabilia 2.1.21: peplos vs. chiton
  • *Himation — "mantle"
  • Sakkos — hairnet

ROMAN

• Male
  • Subligaculum — loincloth worn under toga by early Romans and those who emulated them
    • Cicero, De Officiis 1.129
  • *Tunica — tunic, worn beneath toga
    • Tunica Palmata — tunic decorated with palm leaves, worn by triumphator
    • *Clavus — vertical stripe running down from either shoulder of tunic
      • *Clavus Latus (Tunica Laticlavia) — wide stripe (senatorial class)
      • *Clavus Angustus — narrow stripe (equestrian class)
  • *Toga — the Roman male's garment par excellence, made of wool
    • *Toga Pura (Toga Virilis) — plain (off-white or gray) toga worn by typical adult Roman
    • *Toga Praetexta — had a purple stripe along hem (magistrates, high priests, freeborn minors)
    • *Toga Candida — artificially whitened, to mark those standing for political office
    • Toga Pulla — dark (mourning, supplication)
    • Toga Picta — embroidered (triumphator)
    • Toga Trabea — striped (augurs and other priests)
    • Toga Purpurea — purple (emperor)
  • *Sinus — fold below right arm
  • *Umbo — "boss" (as of a shield): a clump of drapery drawn up from under the wearer's left arm
  • *Balteus — "sword belt": the mass of folds running across the wearer's chest (in the later toga, carefully pressed to form a smooth band)
  • *Bulla — protective locket worn by boys before they reached the age of adulthood
  • *Capite velato — "with veiled head": a style worn by those about to sacrifice or engage in religious ritual
  • Cinctus Gabinus — with toga tied around waist to free for action (work, battle)
  • Pallium — Greek mantle worn on occasion by Roman male (Roman version of the himation)
  • Quintilian, Institutio Oratoria, Book 11

• Female
  • *Stola — distinctive garment of the Roman matrona
  • Strophium — breast band (combination belt and brassiere)
  • *Palla — mantle
  • *Vittae — woolen bands used to hold and decorate hair
    • Plautus, Miles Gloriosus (Braggart Soldier) 790-93
    • Ovid, Ars Amatoria 1.31-32
  • Tutulus — distinctive hairstyle of the materfamilias
  • Ricinium — mantle worn by widows in place of palla
    • Univira — woman married to only one husband throughout her life

Links to Relevant Sites Elsewhere on the WWW

• Greek Costume Links
• Greek Costume Through the Centuries
• Timeline of Costume History: Ancient Greece
• In the Greek Fashion (Images of ancient Greek clothing)
• Roman Costume Links
• The World of Body (Roman)
• Roman Clothing and Personal Hygiene
• Roman Clothing
• The Clothing of Roman Men and Boys
• The Roman Toga
• Roman Life
• History of Roman Costume

Bibliography

For a much more compehensive bibliography, search
the Diotima on-line bibliography s.v. "clothing."

For bibliography on Greek costume, see
L.J. Roccos' Ancient Greek Costume Bibliography.

For a list of journal abbreviations and call numbers, see the
Journals Relating to Classics in the University of Saskatchewan Libraries page.

• Adkin, N. "Did the Romans Keep their Underwear on in Bed?" CW 93 (2000) 619-20.
• Anderson, J., and M. Garland. A History of Fashion. London, 1979.
• Bieber, M. Ancient Copies: Contributions to the History of Greek and Roman Art. New York, 1977.
• Bieber, M. Die Entwicklungsgeschichte der Griechischen Tracht. Berlin and Leipzig, 1928.
• Bieber, M. Griechische Kleidung. Berlin, 1928.
• Bieber, M. The Sculpture of the Hellenistic Age. New York, 1961.
• Bonfante, L. Etruscan Dress. Updated edition. Baltimore, 2003.
• Bonfante-Warren, L. "Roman Triumphs and Etruscan Kings. The Changing Face of the Triumph," JRS 60 (1970) 49-66.
• Brooke, I. Costume In Greek Classic Drama. London, 1962.
• Bruster, E.H. "The Synthesis of the Romans," TAPA 49 (1918) 131-43.
• Christ, A.T. "The Masculine Ideal of 'The Race that Wears the Toga,'" Art Journal 56 (1997) 24-30.
• Cleland, L., G. Davies, L. Llewellyn-Jones. Greek and Roman dress from A to Z. Oxon and New York, 2007.
• Cleland, L., M. Harlow, and L. Llewellyn-Jones, eds. The Clothed Body in the Ancient World. Oxford, 2005.
• Cohen, B. "Ethnic Identity in Democratic Athens and the Visual Vocabulary of Male Costume," in I. Malkin, ed., Ancient Perceptions of Greek Ethnicity (Washington DC, 2001) 235-74.
• Colburn, C.S., and M.K. Heyn, Reading a Dynamic Canvas: Adornment in the Ancient Mediterranean World. Newcastle, 2008.
• Croom, A.T. Roman Clothing and Fashion. Stroud and Charleston, 2000.
• Curta, F. "Female Dress and "Slavic" Bow Fibulae in Greece," Hesperia 74.1 (2005) 101-46.
• Darling, J.K. "Form and Ideology: Rethinking Greek Drapery," Hephaistos 16/17 (1998) 47-69.
• Davies, D. "What Made the Roman Toga virilis?" in L. Cleland, M. Harlow, and L. Llewellyn-Jones, eds., The Clothed Body in the Ancient World (Oxford, 2005) 121-30.
• Dearden, C.W. The Stage of Aristophanes. London, 1976. [Chapter 8: "Costume in Old Comedy"]
• DeBrohun, J. "Power Dressing in Ancient Greece and Rome," History Today 51.2 (2001) 18-25.
• Dolansky, F. "Togam virilem sumere: Coming of Age in the Roman World," in J. Edmondson and A. Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto, Buffalo, and London, 2008) 47-70.
• Dyck, A.R. "Dressing to Kill: Attire as a Proof and Means of Characterization in Cicero's Speeches," Arethusa 34.1 (2001) 119-30.
• Edmondson, J. "Public Dress and Social Control in Late Republican and Early Imperial Rome," in J. Edmondson and A. Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto, Buffalo, and London, 2008) 21-46.
• Ferrari, G. Figures of Speech: Men and Maidens in Ancient Greece. Chicago, 2002.
• Geddes, A.G. "Rags and Riches: The Costume of Athenian Men in the Fifth Century," CQ 37 (1987) 307-31.
• George, M. "The 'Dark Side' of the Toga," in J. Edmondson and A. Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto, Buffalo, and London, 2008) 94-112.
• Glazebrook, A. "Cosmetics and Sôphrosunê: Ischomachos' Wife in Xenophon's Oikonomikos," CW 102 (2009) 233-48.
• Goldman, N. "Reconstructing Roman Clothing," in J.L. Sebesta and L. Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison, 1994) 213-37.
• Goldman, N. "Roman Footwear," in J.L. Sebesta and L. Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison, 1994) 101-29.
• Hannah, P.A. "The Reality of Greek Male Nudity: Looking to African Parallels," Scholia 7 (1998) 17-40.
• Harlow, Mary "The Impossible Art of Dressing to Please: Jerome and the Rhetoric of Dress," in L. Lavan, E. Swift, and T. Putzeys, eds., Objects in Context, Objects in Use: Material Spatiality in Late Antiquity (Leiden and Boston 2007) 531-49.
• Heskell, J. "Cicero as Evidence for Attitudes to Dress in the Late Republic," in J.L. Sebesta and L. Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison, 1994) 133-45.
• Hope, T. Costumes of the Greeks and Romans. New York, 1962.
• Hopman, M. "Satire in Green: Marked Clothing and the Technique of indignatio at Juvenal 5.141-45," AJP 124.4 (2003) 557-74.
• Houston, M.G. Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume and Decoration. Second edition. London, 1947.
• Hunink, V., ed. Tertullian, De Pallio. Amsterdam, 2005.
• Johnson, M., ed. Ancient Greek Dress. Chicago, 1964. [Combines Greek Dress by Ethel Abrahams and Chapters on Greek Dress by Lady Evans]
• Kleiner, D.E.E. Roman Group Portraiture: The Funerary Reliefs of the Late Republic and Early Empire. New York, 1977.
• Koda, H. Goddess: The Classical Mode. New Haven, 2003.
• Koortbojian, M. "The Double Identity of Roman Portrait Statues: Costumes and Their Symbolism at Rome," in J. Edmondson and A. Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto, Buffalo, and London, 2008) 71-93.
• Köhler, C. A History of Costume. Reprinted New York, 1963.
• La Follette, L. "The Costume of the Roman Bride," in J.L. Sebesta and L. Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison, 1994) 54-64.
• Laver, J. Costume In Antiquity. London, 1964.
• Lee, M.M. The Myth of the Greek Peplos. Diss. Bryn Mawr College, 1999.
• Lee, M.M. "'Evil Wealth of Raiment': Deadly PEPLOI in Greek Tragedy," Classical Journal 99 (2004) 255-79.
• Lee, M.M. "The Peplos and the 'Dorian Question,'" in A.A. Donohue and M.D. Fullerton, eds., Ancient Art and Its Historiography (Cambridge, 2003).
• Lee, M.M. "Problems in Greek Dress Terminology: Kolpos and Apoptygma," ZPE 150 (2004) 221-24.
• Lee, M. "Constru(ct)ing Gender in the Feminine Greek Peplos," in L. Cleland, M. Harlow, and L. Llewellyn-Jones, eds., The Clothed Body in the Ancient World (Oxford, 2005) 55-64.
• Lester, K.M. Historic Costume: A Resume of the Characteristic Types of Costume from the Most Remote Times to the Present Day. Peoria, 1925.
• Levine, M.M. "The Gendered Grammar of Ancient Mediterranean Hair," in H. Eilberg-Schwartz and W. Doniger, eds., Off With Her Head! The Denial of Women's Identity in Myth, Religion, and Culture (Berkeley, 1995) 76-130.
• Lindsay, H. "Food and Clothing in Martial," Studies in Latin Literature 10 (2000) 318-27.
• Llewellyn-Jones, L., and S. Blundell, eds. Women's Dress in the Ancient Greek World. London, Swansea, and Oakville, 2002.
• Llewellyn-Jones, L. Aphrodite's Tortoise: The Veiled Woman of Ancient Greece. Swansea, 2003.
• Losfeld, G. Essai sur le costume grec. Paris, 1991.
• McDaniel, W.B. "Roman Dinner Garments," CP 20 (1925) 268-70.
• Morrow, K.D. Greek footwear and the dating of sculpture. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1985.
• Olson, K. "Matrona and Whore: Clothing and Definition in Roman Antiquity," in C.A. Faraone and L. McClure, eds., Prostitutes and Courtesans in the ancient world (Madison, 2006) 186-206.
• Olson, K. "Roman Underwear Revisited," CW 96 (2003) 201-10.
• Olson, K. Dress and the Roman Woman: Self-Presentation and Society. London and New York, 2008.
• Olson, K. "Cosmetics in Roman Antiquity: Substance, Remedy, Poison," CW 102 (2009) 291-310.
• Olson, K. "The Appearance of the Young Roman Girl," in J. Edmondson and A. Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto, Buffalo, and London, 2008) 139-57.
• Osborne, R. "Men without Clothes: Heroic Nakedness and Greek Art," Gender History 9 (1997) 504-28.
• Papantoniou, J. Greek Women's Dress and Jewelry, Past and Present. Nauplion, 1985.
• Pekridou-Gorecki, A. Mode im antiken Griechenland. Munich, Beck, 1989.
• Pipili, M. "Wearing an Other Hat: Workmen in Town and Country," in B. Cohen, ed., Not the Classical Ideal: Athens and the Construction of the Other in Greek Art (Leiden, Boston, and Köln, 2000) 150-79.
• Raval, S. "Cross-Dressing and Gender Trouble in the Ovidian Corpus," Helios 29.2 (2002) 149-72.
• Richardson, E.H., and L. Richardson. "Ad cohibendum bracchium toga. An archaeological examination of Cicero, Pro Caelio v.11," YCIS 19 (1966) 251-68.
• Richardson, L., and E. H. Richardson. "Ad cohibendum bracchium toga," AJA 48 (1964) 199-200.
• Richlin, A. "Making Up a Woman: The Face of Roman Gender," in H. Eilberg-Schwartz and W. Doniger, eds., Off With Her Head! The Denial of Women's Identity in Myth, Religion, and Culture (Berkeley, 1995) 185-214.
• Roccos, L.J. "Back-Mantle and Peplos: The Special Costume of Greek Maidens in 4th-Century Funerary and Votive Reliefs," Hesperia 69 (2000) 235-65.
• Roccos, L.J. Ancient Greek Costume: An Annotated Bibliography, 1784 - 2005. Jefferson, NC: McFarland and Co., 2006.
• Ross, C.F. "The Reconstruction of the Later Toga," AJA 15 (1911) 24.
• Saatsoglu-Paliadeli, C. "Aspects of Ancient Macedonian Costume," JHS 113 (1993) 122ff.
• Schmaltz, B. "Peplos und Chiton. FrŸhe griechische Tracht und ihre Darstellungskonventionen," JDAI 113 (1998) 1-30.
• D'Ambrosio, A. Women and Beauty in Pompeii. Los Angeles, 2001.
• Schnurnberger, L.E. Let There Be Clothes: 40,000 Years of Fashion. New York, 1991.
• Sebesta, J.L. "Women's Costume and Feminine Civic Morality in Augustan Rome," Gender & History 9Ê(1997)Ê529-41.
• Sebesta, J. "Costume in the Vatican Vergil Codex," CW 87 (1993) 27-34.
• Sebesta, J.L. "Symbolism in the Costume of the Roman Woman," in J.L. Sebesta and L. Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison, 1994) 46-53.
• Sebesta, J.L. "The toga praetexta of Roman Children and Praetextate Garments," in L. Cleland, M. Harlow, and L. Llewellyn-Jones, eds., The Clothed Body in the Ancient World (Oxford, 2005) 113-20.
• Sebesta, J.L., and L. Bonfante, eds. The World of Roman Costume. Madison, 1994.
• Serwint, N. "The Female Athletic Costume at the Heraia and Prenuptial Initiation Rites," AJA 97 (1993) 403.
• Shumka, L.J. "Designing Women: The Representation of Women's Toiletries on Funerary Monuments in Roman Italy," in J. Edmondson and A. Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto, Buffalo, and London, 2008) 172-91.
• Sichel, M. Costume of the Classical World. London, 1980.
• Stafford, E.J. "Viewing and Obscuring the Female Breast: Glimpses of the ancient bra," in L. Cleland, M. Harlow, and L. Llewellyn-Jones, eds., The Clothed Body in the Ancient World (Oxford, 2005) 96-111.
• Stone, L.M. Costume in Aristophanic Comedy. New York, 1981.
• Stone, S. "The Toga: From National to Ceremonial Costume," in J.L. Sebesta and L. Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison, 1994) 13-45.
• Symons, D.J. Costume of Ancient Greece. London, 1987.
• Symons, D.J. Costume of Ancient Rome. London, 1987.
• Tilke, M. Costume Patterns and Designs. London, 1956. [Reprinted: New York, 1974.]
• Vout, C. "The Myth of the Toga: Understanding the History of Roman Dress," G&R 43 (1996) 204-20.
• Warren L.B. "Roman Triumphs and Etruscan Kings. The Changing Face of the Triumph," JRS 60 (1970) 49-66.
• Welters, L. Women's Traditional Costume in Attica, Greece. Athens.
• Wilcox, R.T. The Dictionary of Costume. New York, 1969.
• Wilson, L.M. The Clothing of the Ancient Romans. Baltimore, 1938.
• Wilson, L.M. The Roman Toga. Baltimore, 1924.
• Wyke, M. "Woman in the Mirror: The Rhetoric of Adornment in the Roman World," in L.J. Archer, S. Fischler, and M. Wyke, eds., Women in Ancient Societies: An Illusion of the Night (New York, 1994) 134-51.

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